The Juju Pasta, a mess in advance – Liberation


Article reserved for subscribers

More and more peasants and artisans are opting for the production of pasta favoring old or rustic wheat and short circuits. This is the case of this couple from Francs-Comtois living near Besançon, who embarked on the adventure on the eve of confinement.

We’ve been itching for a while: going to see how dry pasta is made, the kind that shivers when you shake their package over the pot of boiling water. In an ideal (and therefore impossible) world, we would have taken the road to Italy to go on a pilgrimage to Naples and Gragnano in an exceptional region where pasta has been made for ages between sky and sea. “The tufa cellars were once ideal for storing the durum wheat semolina produced by millers in the valley, local spring water was essential for manufacturing. The sea breeze rushing through the streets was perfect for drying pasta,” tell Sonia Ezgulian and Alessandra Pierini in their delicious book (1) Pasta allegra, the Italian way of life (Release September 20, 2019). Today, fourteen pasta makers benefit from the IGP label (protected geographical indication) Pasta di Gragnano. But go wander around when the coronavirus has closed the borders. So we went around in circles, confined, around our packets of noodles. A shame all the same for who wanted to escape in the footsteps of fusillonis, orecchiettes and other rigatoni.

That said, the attic is good when you take it down to the last bite. It is in the Doubs, country of Comté cheese and Morteau sausages, that we…


Leave a Comment