Flour, water, yeast, a little oil. Simple, basic? Yes and no. Technically, pizza is “dough leavened by the action of mushrooms, baked and topped with tomatoes, cheese or other ingredients”. But it is also indefinable, elusive and multiple: “We could basically sum up pizza by its immense adaptability, according to Francisco Migoya, co-author with Nathan Myhrvold of the reference encyclopedia*: in India, you will find it with curry from chicken and in Argentina, sprinkled with steak or chorizo. Elsewhere, it will be halal or kosher, zen or vegan, enhanced with truffles or pineapple. Everything has been tried, with more or less success, notes Francisco Migoya, but beyond the different styles defined in our survey, his genius lies in the local nature of his trimmings.